A River Runs Through it

It’s been called “the coolest bird”: a bizarre creature which cannot perch on a branch or a wire, but can only cling to vertical surfaces-which spends its days so high in the air that it can rarely be seen from the ground-and which builds its nest so close to waterfalls that a fledgling’s first flight may actually be the first time its feathers are dry. The Black Swift is legendarily difficult to observe, but in summer, here in the heart of Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, a sighting is virtually guaranteed. Also guaranteed are heart-stopping views of some of Colorado’s grandest peaks and most impressive waterfalls, as well as hospitality in quaint mining towns that haven’t lost their character, and vast tracts of alpine forest and tundra to explore. This is the Colorado that you came for, and it won’t disappoint.

Haviland Lake State Wildlife Area

Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license OR SWA pass is required for everyone 16 or older accessing any state wildlife area. Camping fees, check with US Forest Service.

Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife and US Forest Service

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Durango Mountain Resort Ski Area and Sig Creek

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Old Lime Creek Road

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Spud (Potato) Lake

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Cascade Creek

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service/Private

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Coal Bank Pass

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Andrews Lake

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Little Molas Lake

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Molas Lake

Admission: Free

Ownership: Municipal

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Silverton

Admission: Free

Ownership: Municipal

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Animas River – North

Admission: Free

Ownership: Private/US Forest Service

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South Mineral Creek

Admission: Free, Fee camping

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Ophir Pass Road (FR 679)

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Red Mountain Pass

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Camp Bird Road

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

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Ouray

Admission: Fee for entry to Box Canyon Falls

Ownership: Municipal

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Pleasant Valley

Admission: Free

Ownership: Private

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Haviland Lake State Wildlife Area

A beautiful mountain lake surrounded by ponderosa forest and a campground — what more could you ask for? Look for a variety of montane bird species, including Evening Grosbeak, Grace’s Warbler, Ruby-crowned and Golden-crowned Kinglets, Brown Creeper, and Williamson’s Sapsucker. On the lake itself look for Ring-necked Duck, Pied-billed Grebe, and a variety of other waterfowl during fall migration. Pine and Abert’s squirrels and golden-mantled ground-squirrels can be seen in the trees.

This site is co-managed by Colorado Parks and Wildlife and US Fish and Wildlife Service. Visit USFWS for camping infprmation.

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Durango Mountain Resort Ski Area and Sig Creek

Sig Creek Campground is set amid truly beautiful old-growth spruce-fir forest, with lots of deadfall, and lichen hanging from practically every branch. American Three-toed Woodpecker can often be found in the vicinity of the campground, along with Pine Grosbeak, Red Crossbill, Gray Jay, and other high-elevation forest birds. A number of small mammals call the area home. Elk and deer sightings are not uncommon.

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Old Lime Creek Road

Paralleling US Highway 550 for 10 miles, this amazingly scenic mountain road was once the original highway between Silverton and Durango. Rough and narrow, it is best traveled in a high-clearance vehicle. It provides access to an excellent variety of habitats. Along the northern portions of the road you pass through some nice high-elevation riparian willows with Lazuli Bunting, Western Wood-Pewee, Cordilleran Flycatcher, and Black-headed Grosbeak possible. Further on you’ll cross some truly impressive aspen groves, and Red-naped Sapsucker, Warbling Vireo, Orange-crowned Warbler, and more could be seen. Some spruce-fir forest and a couple of lily-fringed ponds round out the habitat selections. Butterfly diversity along the road is also excellent, and this is one of the best places in the state to see the rare red columbine.

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Spud (Potato) Lake

Spud Lake is a small lake at the end of a one-mile hike from Old Lime Road. The trail to the lake passes through excellent forest; species like Olive-sided Flycatcher, Pine Grosbeak, Golden-crowned Kinglet, Hermit Thrush, and Wilson’s Warbler can be seen. Black Swifts sometimes hawk for insects overhead, and, if you are really lucky, you may stumble across a Northern Goshawk. There is also ample evidence of beaver. The small, lily filled pond across from the parking area for the trail sometimes has some waterbirds on it, including Pied-billed Grebe and dabbling ducks. High-elevation butterflies can be common during the warmer months with species like Chryxus Arctic, Northern Blue, and Purplish Fritillary, among others.

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Cascade Creek

Cascade Creek and the road paralleling it provide good access to beautiful spruce-fir woodland. If you hike the trail up the creek you will come to some gorgeous waterfalls in a couple of miles. A wide array of montane birds can be found, including Dusky and Cordilleran Flycatcher, Red-naped Sapsucker, Red Crossbill, Evening and Pine Grosbeaks, and American Three-toed Woodpecker. Chipmunks and pine squirrels are abundant.

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Coal Bank Pass

The southernmost of the three high-mountain passes on US 550 sits amid beautiful spruce-fir forest. A parking area at the top of the pass is a good spot to stop and walk around a bit. Two trails provide access to the trees, where species such as Pine Grosbeak, Red Crossbill, Gray Jay, and American Three-toed Woodpecker can be found. Even if you don’t walk the trails, this a nice spot to relax for a few minutes and watch the chipmunks and golden-mantled ground squirrels.

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Andrews Lake

Situated on a small bench near Molas Pass, this is the epitome of scenic mountain lakes. The lake itself is not very good for waterbirds, but the boggy willows can support Fox and Lincoln’s Sparrows, Wilson’s and MacGillivray’s Warblers, and Dusky Flycatcher, and the spruce-fir could produce Pine Grosbeak, Hammond’s Flycatcher, Red Crossbill, and more. During the winter months White-tailed Ptarmigan can be found around the lake, though you will have to snowshoe in from the highway to find them. Look in the bogs for alpine butterflies, especially in late summer.

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Little Molas Lake

This small lake just south of Silverton is a good spot to camp out and bird in spruce-fir woodland: species such as American Three-toed and Hairy Woodpeckers, Pine Grosbeak, Red Crossbill, and Gray Jay are possible. During the winter months the adventurous snowshoe in to look for White-tailed Ptarmigan in the willows around the frozen lake. Pine squirrels and snowshoe hares can be found in the area.

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Molas Lake

Molas Lake is not only the largest lake in San Juan County, it also has the most tourist infrastructure. The lake itself often holds some ducks and other waterbirds during the warmer months, and the willows around the lake could harbor Fox and Lincoln’s Sparrows, Wilson’s and Orange-crowned Warblers, and Swainson’s Thrush. During the later summer look for up to three species of hummingbirds at the feeders. The lake itself and the campground are owned by the town of Silverton.

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Silverton

Yet another fantastically scenic mountain town, Silverton is similar to Ouray, but with much more of a pioneer feel. A number of feeders around town can have a variety of finches, Steller’s Jay, woodpeckers, and species more typical of lower elevations like Black-headed Grosbeak. During the colder months large flocks of rosy-finches can be seen in the feeders around town, or along the roads to the ski area. Get out of the car and walk the streets of this small historic town.

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Animas River – North

Winding its way down from its headwaters high in the San Juan mountains, the Animas River provides a good variety of montane habitats. Willow carrs line much of the river, and species such as Fox Sparrow, Wilson’s Warbler, and Swainson’s Thrush are possible. The road also passes through spruce-fir woodland; in these stretches keep an eye out for woodpeckers including American Three-toed, as well as Gray Jay, Red-breasted Nuthatch, and Brown Creeper. You may see elk in some of the meadows here.

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South Mineral Creek

This pleasant mountain road runs for a number of miles along the willow-lined Mineral Creek. A forest service campground a few miles up the road makes for a good place to camp near Silverton. Look for typical willow-carr specialties, including Fox Sparrow, and spruce-fir species in the forest, including American Three-toed Woodpecker. Elk can be common in the area, and pine marten have been sighted nearby. During the summer months butterflies can be abundant.

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Ophir Pass Road (FR 679)

This seasonal 4×4 road is a good introduction to the multitude of jeep trails in the San Juan mountains, and is not too hard to drive if you know what you’re doing. The western side of the pass is far worse than the eastern side, and should not be attempted without a high-clearance vehicle. The drive up to the pass goes through thick forest; in the spruce-fir, mountain meadows and willow carrs look for Pine Grosbeak, Olive-sided and Hammond’s Flycatchers, and Fox and Lincoln’s Sparrows in addition to other typical birds. Park farther up the road and hike some of the tundra to look for ptarmigan, although the best habitat is far from the road. Near the pass itself you get into loose talus slopes where you should not go hiking unless you are an elk–which is a species you should keep an eye out for. Bighorn sheep, pika and yellow-bellied marmots also can be found here, along with many alpine butterflies including Mead’s Sulphur.

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Red Mountain Pass

Driving this high mountain pass is not for the faint of heart. However, if you brave the steep drop-offs and disturbing lack of guardrails, you will be treated to one of the most amazing scenic drives in Colorado. From Ouray you start out in mixed-conifer woodland, head up into spruce-fir, and top out in willow carrs just below treeline. A good variety of montane passerines can be seen, and Black Swifts are often spotted flying overhead. Be careful when parking off the road here; shoulders are narrow to non-existent, and parking spots are few and far between.

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Camp Bird Road

The narrow, picturesque mountain road up to Camp Bird traverses a variety of montane habitats and can be good for a number of species including Dusky Flycatcher, Western Tanager, Pine Grosbeak, Red Crossbill, and much more. Incredible cliffs and mountain scenery add to the mix. Keep an eye out for Black Swifts, which can sometimes be seen feeding high over the mountains here. Yellow-bellied marmots will announce your presence with their extraordinarily loud ‘chip’ noises. The road beyond Camp Bird becomes passable only to four-wheel-drive, high-clearance vehicles.

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Ouray

Even in an area of the state filled with picturesque mountain towns, Ouray is something special. How many places are there on earth where you can have all the amenities and also walk to a Black Swift colony? The feeders around town itself are excellent for a variety of birds, especially finches, and can attract rarities during the fall and winter. Box Can?on Falls (fee area), just south of town, in addition to the aforementioned Black Swift nests, can be good for White-throated Swift, Cordilleran Flycatcher, Cassin’s Finch, and Red-naped Sapsucker. But don’t let the birding here keep you from admiring the gorgeous falls itself, nor the not springs, nor the unbelievable scenery nearby.

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Pleasant Valley

This aptly named valley provides a good alternate route when driving from Ridgway to Telluride. A good variety of forests, including mixed conifer and aspen woodlands as well as mountain meadows and some riparian groves, can be seen from the road, and a good selection of montane birds could be found here.

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