Difficult to Top

Even among native Coloradans, the Flat Tops are a well-kept secret. Flat though their tops may be, these impressive mountains are the centerpiece of the second-largest wilderness area in the state. They include a vast landscape of subalpine forest, alpine tundra, sheer cliffs, and sparkling lakes. Here you can hike the death-defying trail across the Devil’s Causeway, where thousand-foot drops are separated from one another by a knife ridge only a few feet wide. You can visit Trappers Lake, one of the only known breeding sites in Colorado for Barrow’s Goldeneye, and explore aspen stands with nesting Purple Martins and oak scrublands where Dusky Grouse are common. You can see Band-tailed Pigeons winging their way overhead. This is a special area, well worth the effort to get to.

Piceance State Wildlife Area

Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license, or State Wildlife Area pass is required for everyone 16 or older accessing any state wildlife area or state trust lands.

Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife

» Visit this Site

Rio Blanco Lake State Wildlife Area

Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license, or State Wildlife Area pass is required for everyone 16 or older accessing any state wildlife area or state trust lands.

Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife

» Visit this Site

Oak Ridge State Wildlife Area (Lake Avery Unit)

Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license, or State Wildlife Area pass is required for everyone 16 or older accessing any state wildlife area or state trust lands.

Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife

» Visit this Site

Buford Area

Admission: Free

Ownership: Municipal/US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Big Marvine Peak

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Trappers Lake

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Ripple Creek Pass and Vaughan Lake

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Dunckley Pass

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Piceance State Wildlife Area

This spread-out SWA has a number of units, but the Little Hills Experiment Station is probably the most worth visiting. Among the cliffs and pinyon-juniper forest you can usually find White-throated Swift, Lazuli Bunting, and Rock and Canyon Wrens, and in the marshy riparian areas look for Yellow-headed and Red-winged Blackbirds, sparrows, and sometimes a few shorebirds at the ponds. Note that, inexplicably, Piceance is pronounced ‘PEE-aunts.’

Hit The Trail »

Rio Blanco Lake State Wildlife Area

Rio Blanco Lake just west of Meeker is the best lake in the area for waterbirds and shorebirds, and is definitely worth a visit during the spring and fall. The best area for shorebirds is along the north shore when water is low, especially in the northeastern corner, where there is also a small marshy area. Several species of finches, flycatchers, and warblers may be found in the cottonwoods and shrubs between the lake and the river, and Great Blue Herons nest in the cottonwoods east of the lake. While driving to or from the lake, keep an eye out for Bald Eagles and Sandhill Cranes, especially during the spring and fall.

Hit The Trail »

Oak Ridge State Wildlife Area (Lake Avery Unit)

Lake Avery is a good spot to look for Barrow’s Goldeneyes and other waterfowl in the fall and early winter, before the lake freezes over. The best way to check out the lake is to scope it from the top of the hills. Also check the willows and marshy area near the inlet, which are good for warblers and other songbirds, such as Lincoln’s and maybe Fox Sparrow, Wilson’s Warbler, and more. The lower road, on the dam side, is also worth checking out for sparrows, swallows and waterfowl. The nearby Oak Ridge SWA is a good place to look for Dusky Grouse amid the abundant Gambel Oak woods. There is also a campground and access to the river which might produce some nice birds including Wilson’s Snipe, Belted Kingfisher, American Dipper, and others.

Hit The Trail »

Buford Area

This small town along the Flat Tops Scenic Byway is the last place to stock up if you’re coming from Meeker. It’s also a good area to look at hummingbird feeders at the general store, which can have Black-chinned and Broad-tailed Hummingbirds. The Buford Road, which heads south from here towards I-70, passes through excellent aspen and mixed-conifer woodlands, with Purple Martin colonies, American Three-toed Woodpeckers at higher elevations, and chances for Dusky Grouse and Northern Goshawk. Along the main road below and above Buford watch for Sandhill Cranes and Bald Eagles along the riparian areas and fields. Elk and mule deer are often sighted along the road as well.

Hit The Trail »

Big Marvine Peak

The road along Big Marvine Creek passes through excellent aspen and mixed conifer woodland; look especially for Purple Martin around the aspen stands, and Northern Goshawk throughout. Willow carrs in the area support Fox Sparrow, and typical spruce-fir birds like Pine Grosbeak, Gray Jay, and sometimes American Three-toed Woodpecker are all possible. From the end of the road a trail continues on to the Flat Tops and up to alpine tundra, though it is a rather long walk. If you decide to take the hike, keep an eye out for White-tailed Ptarmigan and Brown-capped Rosy-Finch once on the tundra.

Hit The Trail »

Trappers Lake

This large mountain lake on the northern Flat Tops is a long drive from anywhere, but it’s worth visiting to those who want to see some of the only easily accessible breeding Barrow’s Goldeneyes in the state. The lake is about a quarter-mile hike beyond the end of the road; bring a scope to help with the search. The goldeneyes should be easy to find on the lake throughout the summer. Much of the area around the lake and most of the entrance road is covered by an enormous burn area that is worth checking for woodpeckers of various species, especially American Three-toed Woodpeckers. This area is famous for prize-winning elk.

Hit The Trail »

Ripple Creek Pass and Vaughan Lake

The Flat Tops Scenic Byway over Ripple Creek Pass goes through some of the most beautiful coniferous woodlands and montane meadows in northwestern Colorado. This not only makes for a very scenic and enjoyable trip, it also makes for good birding. Species such as Red Crossbill, Hammond’s, Dusky, and Cordilleran Flycatchers, Golden-crowned Kinglet, and even less common birds like American Three-toed Woodpecker, Dusky Grouse, and Northern Goshawk are all possible here. The meadows have species such as Violet-green Swallow, Vesper Sparrow, and Mountain Bluebirds, among others. Also of greatest interest is a colony of Purple Martins near Vaughan Lake; watch for them especially in areas of large, old-growth aspen woodland. The Flat Tops are famous for their elk, and this is among the best areas to see them. Butterfly diversity during the summer months here is also wide and excellent.

Hit The Trail »

Dunckley Pass

Just to the east of Ripple Creek Pass, the forest (and birds) here are fairly similar, with more meadows, and especially more aspen woodland. Dusky Grouse can be seen along this stretch of road with some regularity, and this part of Colorado has among the highest density of Northern Goshawk in the state. Watch also for Purple Martins in areas with abundant aspens, and Fox and Lincoln’s Sparrows in willow-choked drainages. Restrooms and picnic tables are available at the Dunckley Pass Picnic Area.

Hit The Trail »

Stillwater Reservoir and the Devil’s Causeway

This remote location provides the best access to the eastern Flat Tops and to the scenic Devil’s Causeway (a narrow natural stone bridge on top of the plateau). The road rises to a trailhead at Stillwater Reservoir; look for Fox Sparrow and Wilson’s Warblers along the way in. From here you can hike up to the top of the Flat Tops and excellent alpine tundra. Look for White-tailed Ptarmigan, Brown-capped Rosy-Finch, and American Pipit among other birds. This is a good place to bring family for a fairly easy hike.

Hit The Trail »