Pagosa Springs is a large town by regional standards, with all the amenities. If you spend any time in and around town, you are likely to see a Lewis’s Woodpecker. A little more looking might net you an American Dipper along the river in town. The ponds along the highway west of town can be great places to see waterfowl, but note that the Trumpeter Swans at the lake by the Fairfield Inn are released birds, not wild ones.
Wolf Creek
Where The Highway Meets the Wilderness
The summit of Wolf Creek Pass is one of the snowiest places in Colorado during the winter. During the summer, it's one of the most scenic. The famous overlook on the west side offers you a chance to be swarmed by panhandling Steller’s Jays, while swifts and swallows wheel in huge flocks overhead. South of the pass lie the South San Juan mountains, one of Colorado’s least visited ranges, where the subalpine spruce-fir forest stretches for miles along nearly-deserted logging roads and untraveled hiking trails, serenaded by the lovely warble of Pine Grosbeaks during the day and the haunting tremolo of the Boreal Owl late at night. There is a vast wilderness here open to wildlife-and open to you, if you choose.
Big Meadows Reservoir State Wildlife Area
Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license is required for everyone 18 or older to access any State Wildlife Area or State Trust Land leased by Colorado Parks and Wildlife. US Forest Service camping fees.
Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife and US Forest Service
Beaver Creek Reservoir State Wildlife Area
Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license is required for everyone 18 or older to access any State Wildlife Area or State Trust Land leased by Colorado Parks and Wildlife. Check with Us Forest Service for campground fees.
Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife and US Forest Service
Mill Creek Road
Just east of Pagosa Springs is some of the best ponderosa pine forest in the state. Towards the end of FR 029, Williamson’s Sapsucker is the most common woodpecker, and you can also find good numbers of Virginia’s and Grace’s Warblers, Red Crossbills, and even Band-tailed Pigeons. This is the habitat in which you can find the striking Abert’s Squirrel, and it is exactly the kind of remote, lush area where you might catch a bear or a bobcat crossing the road.
Upper San Juan River
The East Fork of the San Juan River carves a steep, lush valley out of the mountains just south of Wolf Creek Pass. Approaching from Pagosa Springs, the unpaved road follows a stream through thick willows, where you might see American Dipper or Swainson’s Thrush. Surrounding montane forest, ranging from ponderosa pine at low elevations to aspen and mixed-conifer forests higher up, might yield Grace’s Warbler or Gray Jay. The farther up the road you go, the fewer people you are likely to see, and there are some amazing vistas up the side valleys. In late September, this is an excellent place from which to observe the changing of the aspen leaves. Some abandoned mines can be seen along the upper portions of the road.
Wolf Creek Pass
This pass is known for its scenic beauty, and much of the reputation rests on the overlook at the first big switchback west of the pass, which provides astonishing views of the valley to the west. On summer evenings the skies near the overlook fill with swifts and swallows, and birders who search each bird carefully should be rewarded with a sighting of a Black Swift from the nearby colony at Treasure Falls. Other mountain birds ranging from Western Tanager to Cassin’s Finch can also be seen at the overlook. Enjoy the view, but please don’t feed the chipmunks and golden-mantled ground-squirrels, no matter how politely they beg.
Big Meadows Reservoir State Wildlife Area
This small body of water near Wolf Creek Pass is not normally noted for attracting many waterbirds, but in 2002 a Brown Pelican was found here. The surrounding high-elevation forests are good for all the usual spruce-fir birds, including Pine Grosbeak. Snowshoe hares, deer, elk, and marmots are in the area as well. The forest service campground here has interpretive programs in summer.
Park Creek
This is a good road to Summitville from US 160. At the beginning of the road, in the riparian trees along the Rio Grande, look for Lazuli Bunting and Black-headed Grosbeak, in addition to American Dipper along the river. As you follow the road higher, keep an eye out for Dusky Grouse, Cassin’s Finch, and White-crowned, Lincoln’s, and Fox Sparrows. Boreal Owl has been heard in early fall near the top of this road. Deer and elk are likely to be seen, and coyotes are a good bet too.
Summitville area
Summitville is the site of an old abandoned mining town and a more-recently abandoned open-pit gold mine. Although the mine seriously polluted the area’s creeks and rivers in the 1980s and 1990s, the surrounding spruce-fir forests remain some of the healthiest and most extensive in the state. A good map will be essential, as the road system is substantial. In addition to the usual high-elevation wildlife like Red Crossbills, Gray Jays, Pine Grosbeaks, elk, marmots, pine martens, porcupines, and snowshoe hares, the intrepid and lucky might find Boreal Owls here at night in summer and fall. If the weather is good and the transmission tower road has been maintained, you may be able to drive up to near the summit of Grayback Mountain, above treeline, where the tundra can produce butterflies such as Phoebus Parnassian and Mead’s Sulphur. This is a remote and seemingly pristine area with numerous rewards for nature watchers.
Beaver Creek Reservoir State Wildlife Area
Busy on weekends, this small, scenic mountain reservoir can attract waterfowl in spring and fall. The bigger attraction, however, is along the road and what’s beyond it. The road passes through a fascinating mixed-conifer forest which transitions gradually from the low-elevation woodlands dominated by juniper to high-elevation dominated by bristlecone pine and Engelmann Spruce. Along the way you may see Bushtits at lower elevations, Red-naped Sapsuckers, Western Tanagers, American Dippers, and many other birds. Herds of elk can be found in the area.
Alder Creek Road
This road traverses the rugged foothills of the La Garita mountains, snaking through mountain meadows with scattered ponderosa and bristlecone pines. Along the creek, look in the willows for breeding Yellow Warblers and Dusky Flycatchers. The relatively open slopes and good visibility along certain parts of this drive make it a good place to look for deer and elk.
Groundhog Park Road (FR 650)
This road branches off from the Embargo Creek road north of Del Norte and heads higher into the mountains. Not far north of the junction where the roads split, look on the right for a pond with a nice marsh. Expect to see breeding Yellow-headed Blackbird, Eared Grebe, Ring-necked Duck, Gadwall and Mallard. The road continues through aspen groves and coniferous forest where you have a good chance of finding Red Crossbill, Gray Jay, Hermit Thrush, and Ruby-crowned Kinglet. This road doesn’t get much traffic, so it’s a good place to look for Dusky Grouse, especially in the mornings and evenings. If you drive the entire length of the road, you should see mule deer and elk; pine squirrels are numerous along the way. The high montane meadows and willow carrs near the top of the road should be checked for alpine butterflies including Boloria fritillaries.
Embargo Creek
FR 640, which follows Embargo Creek, runs through some of the best ponderosa pine habitat in this area. On the south side of the road and in about 4 miles, some hiking into the forest can be very productive for Williamson’s Sapsucker, Pygmy Nuthatch, Western Bluebird and Cassin’s Finch. Nomadic species such as Clark’s Nutcracker and Red Crossbill can occasionally be very common in this area too. This is a good area for the common lower-montane butterflies such as Queen Alexandra’s Sulphur and the beautiful Western Pine Elfin. With luck, you might see an Abert’s Squirrel. At the end of the road is Cathedral Rock Campground, situated in an aspen grove where you might be serenaded to sleep by a Northern Saw-whet Owl.
Pinos Creek
This is the most direct route from the floor of the San Luis Valley to Summitville, at the top of the southern San Juans. The road passes through many habitats along the way. Down near the bottom, in the dry scrub and pinyon-juniper woodlands, look for Western Scrub-Jay and Pinyon Jay. In the ponderosa pine area you may see Western Tanager and Band-tailed Pigeon. Higher up, look for Olive-sided Flycatcher and Northern Goshawk. Note the transition in mammals too, from rock squirrels to pine squirrels and from kangaroo rats to chipmunks. See what you can find!
Old Woman Creek
This short loop route out of the town of Del Norte passes through the saltbush scrub on the floor of the San Luis Valley, then rises into the low foothills with pinyon-juniper and some open ponderosa pine woodland. Along this route you might see Mountain and Western Bluebirds, Green-tailed Towhee, Gray Flycatcher, Pinyon Jay, and Clark’s Nutcracker. This loop road includes some excellent scenery, and a chance to see coyotes, jackrabbits, cottontails, and Abert’s Squirrels.
Del Norte
This is one of the San Luis Valley’s population centers, and you’ll find most anything you need here in terms of lodging and provisions. Bird feeders often produce Evening and Black-headed Grosbeaks, Cassin’s Finch, American and Lesser Goldfinches, Pine Siskin, and (in summer) hummingbirds of up to four species. Base yourself here for an expedition into the southern San Juans or the La Garitas.
Rock Creek
This is one of several wonderful backcountry drives in the southern San Juans. It rises from low dry canyon country all the way up to the cold moist spruce-fir forests where Gray Jays make their home. If you are the first one up this way in the morning, you might find a Dusky Grouse or a mule deer on the road. A nocturnal expedition could turn up singing poorwills and (in the high country) Boreal Owl, plus porcupines, foxes, and snowshoe hares.