In a state known for scenic drives, this is surely among the most scenic. Surprisingly, very few outside of Colorado know of it. As far as birding goes, the habitat along the road is mostly pinyon-juniper, with all the avian benefits thereof. Around Gateway and closer to Nucla some mind-blowing riparian habitat can be found, with the likes of Lazuli and Indigo (rare) Buntings, Black Phoebe, Gray Catbird, and Yellow-breasted Chat. Don’t let the birding get in the way of enjoying the world-class scenery, though. A number of rare butterfly species can be found in the canyon. Some, like Ellis’s Dotted-Blue, are found almost nowhere else in the state. The entire byway is 133 miles long. Give yourself plenty of time to stop and enjoy the scenery.
Uncompahgre
Difficult To Translate, Easy to Understand
Everyone agrees that “Uncompahgre” is a Ute word, but few can agree on what it means. Some say it means “hot springs”; others say it means “red lake” or “the place where water makes the rocks red.” By the same token, people are unlikely to agree about what adjectives best describe the Uncompahgre Plateau, but everyone is likely to agree that it is an amazingly beautiful place. There are hot springs here and cold ones; there are rocks of many colors. There are rivers slicing through sheer canyons, with Black Phoebes hawking insects over the water. There are vast expanses of arid woodland where you might find an Ash-throated Flycatcher or a Virginia’s Warbler building a nest. In a couple of canyons lie hidden oases where lush vegetation harbors rare butterflies such as the Nokomis Fritillary. And on top of the soaring plateau are cool mountain forests, where sapsuckers excavate holes in aspens that Flammulated Owls might inhabit next season. It may be difficult to translate, but the special spirit of this place is easy for anyone to understand without words.
Dry Creek Basin State Wildlife Area
Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license, or State Wildlife Area pass is required for everyone 16 or older accessing any state wildlife area or state trust lands.
Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife
Divide Road on the Uncompahgre Plateau
The Uncompahgre Plateau has some of the best ponderosa pine forest in the state, as well as excellent mixed coniferous forest, aspen woodland, montane shrubland, and mountain meadows. And the way to see all of it is to drive the Divide Road. Starting out in pinyon-juniper woodland (with Juniper Titmouse, Virginia’s and Black-throated Gray Warblers, Pinyon Jay, and more), you soon rise into ponderosa woodland (Williamson’s Sapsucker, Grace’s Warbler, Green-tailed Towhee, Pygmy Nuthatch), then aspens (Purple Martin, Red-naped Sapsucker, Flammulated Owl), and finally mixed conifers and meadows (Mountain Bluebird, Vesper Sparrow, Ruby-crowned Kinglet). Keep an eye out for mammals, including Abert’s squirrel, American badger, black bear, and, if you are really lucky, a mountain lion or a bobcat.
John Brown Canyon
This scenic side canyon off of the Unaweep Canyon provides a good selection of lower-elevation habitats, from pinyon-juniper covered hillsides, streamside riparian and montane shrubland to ponderosa forest. Check the lower portions for Black-throated Gray and Virginia’s Warblers, Lazuli Bunting, Canyon and Rock Wrens, and Gray Flycatcher. As you transition to montane shrubland, keep an eye out for Dusky Flycatcher, MacGillivray’s Warbler, and Western Bluebird. The upper portions of the canyon contain some good ponderosa forest, and Grace’s Warbler, Plumbeous Vireo, and Pygmy Nuthatch all occur. As with many southwestern canyons, the lower portions are excellent for lizards and snakes. A few local butterfly species also occur, such as Desert Green Hairstreak, Southwestern Orangetip, and Desert Marble.
San Miguel River
The San Miguel River from Naturita to its confluence with the Dolores River has some of the best lowland riparian habitat in southwest Colorado. Perhaps the main avian draw here are the many Black Phoebes that nest along the river; look especially around the old bridge at Uravan. The beautiful riparian area has species such as Yellow-breasted Chat, Indigo and Lazuli Buntings, Black-headed Grosbeak, Gray Catbird, and Blue Grosbeak. This riparian corridor has some of the greatest rarity potential in the area. The canyon sides and side canyons are filled with pinyon-juniper woodland, and Black-chinned Hummingbird, Gray and Plumbeous Vireos, Pinyon Jay, and Virginia’s Warbler, among others, are possible.
San Miguel River Tabeguache Preserve
This Nature Conservancy preserve contains a seven-mile stretch of the San Miguel River just northwest of the town of Naturita. It has a visitor’s area with restrooms, a kiosk, a short walking trail and a picnic area. In between the pinyon-juniper hillsides, it also contains some excellent lowland riparian forest of cottonwood and willow. Bald Eagles and Peregrine Falcons are two of the higher-profile birds to look for in this area; Black Phoebes are a good bet too. The pinyon-juniper hillsides are good places to look for Gray Vireo, Black-throated Gray Warbler, Ash-throated Flycatcher, and Black-chinned Hummingbird. Keep an eye out for the locally endangered river otter when you’re near the river.
Nucla
The trees around this charming little town normally have things like Bullock’s Oriole, Eurasian Collared-Dove, passerine migrants during migrations, and finches during the colder months. In this dry part of the state any water tends to attract birds, and Nucla has two ponds that are worth visiting from a birder’s perspective. Nucla Town Reservoir is the larger of the two, and is good for ducks, shorebirds when low, and the occasional gull or tern. The trees around the lake can be good for passerines. The sewage ponds west of town are smaller, but are still good for ducks.
Uncompahgre Plateau
The southern portions of this large plateau (see Divide Road for the northern portions) are more varied than the northern part. The highest parts contain excellent spruce-fir woodland, with Gray Jay, Golden-crowned Kinglet, American Three-toed Woodpecker, and more possible. Purple Martin can be seen in areas with aspen groves near large meadows. Further down are mixed conifer forest, ponderosa woodland, and then pinyon-juniper woodland. Grace’s Warbler can be found in areas with extensive Ponderosa, as can Williamson’s Sapsucker. In pinyon-juniper woodland, look for Juniper Titmouse, Ash-throated Flycatcher, Pinyon Jay, and Gray Flycatcher. A full day between Unaweep Canyon and Nucla could produce quite an impressive list of species! In the mammal department, check for black bear, Abert’s squirrel, and a host of smaller species.
Paradox Valley
When European settlers first arrived in this valley in western Colorado, they were dumbfounded by the fact that the mighty Dolores River cuts perpendicularly across it, spilling out from a deep canyon on the south and entering another deep canyon on the north, instead of flowing down the center of the valley like all other rivers in their experience. At a loss to explain the phenomenon, they named the valley Paradox. We now know that the valley was formed by the collapse of ancient salt dome caves beneath the Dolores River Canyon. The result is a remote valley with excellent scenery and wildlife viewing opportunities. The floor of the valley is filled with sagebrush, where it is easy to find Sage Thrasher, Sage Sparrow, coyotes, jackrabbits, and mule deer. A couple of small farm ponds on the western end of the valley can be good for ducks and shorebirds, and Sandhill Cranes have nested in the area. This is the best place in Colorado to see Ring-necked Pheasant. The pinyon-juniper hillsides should be checked for Gray Vireo, Black-throated Sparrow, Black-throated Gray Warbler, Gray Flycatcher, and Pinyon Jay. Where the highway crosses the river, keep an eye out for Black Phoebe.
La Sal Creek
Tall, sheer rock walls; thick, lush riparian woodland; a rushing mountain stream — what more could you ask for? La Sal Creek is one of the great undiscovered gems of western Colorado. The riparian habitat hosts species such as Yellow-breasted Chat, Gray Catbird, and Indigo Bunting. The cliffs provide ideal habitat for Canyon and Rock Wrens and White-throated Swift. A number of local butterfly species inhabit the area, including Desert Marble and Southwestern Orangetip. Reptiles are especially diverse in this part of Colorado.
Buckeye Reservoir
This small mountain reservoir sits in a beautiful natural setting of ponderosa pines that can attract many birds, including Red Crossbill, Pygmy Nuthatch, Grace’s Warbler, and Western Bluebird. The reservoir itself can have a variety of waterbirds. The small riparian area on the road to the reservoir should be checked for migrants. Black bears prowl the area, though you will be lucky to see one.
Dry Creek Basin State Wildlife Area
This large State Wildlife Area is mostly made up of extensive sage flats. Look for species like Sage Sparrows and Sage Thrashers in the sage flats, and Black-throated Sparrow, Black-throated Gray Warbler, and Ash-throated Flycatchers in the pinyon-juniper forest. The numbers of deer in this area can be mind-boggling, and pronghorn are here too.
Big Gypsum Valley
Unlike other valleys in this area, the floor of this valley is not covered in sagebrush. The main draw here is an amazing red-rock canyon mouth with pinyon-juniper forest, cliff-faces, and riparian forests in the general vicinity. Black-throated Sparrow, Gray Vireo, and Juniper Titmouse are all possible, and keep an eye out for the spectacular Scott’s Oriole. The grasslands on the way in are excellent for Loggerhead Shrike and American Kestrel. Black Phoebe is a good possibility at the bridge over the Dolores River. Reptiles abound in this habitat, and possibilities include Western Rattlesnake, Short-horned Lizard, and Collared Lizard.
Burn Canyon Burn
The Burn Canyon fire of 2002 has left a fascinating mosaic in its wake. As you drive FR 607 through the canyon, you’ll encounter some areas of pinyon-juniper woodland and ponderosa pine forest that burned and some that did not. You’ll find areas where the burned trees have been cleared, areas where they have been felled, and areas where they have been left standing–all part of a long-term experimental effort by the Public Lands Partnership to evaluate the effects of salvage logging on regeneration. The variety of habitats host a corresponding variety of wildlife: The open meadows contain Lark and Vesper Sparrows, the standing burns attract woodpeckers and Western and Mountain Bluebirds; and the standing ponderosa forest can harbor Grace’s Warblers. Deer are common, and elk and Wild Turkey can occasionally be seen. On cool sunny days, bullsnakes sun themselves on the road, and you might see a rattler. Stop at the Basin store for supplies and a restroom break.
San Miguel CR W35
This scenic canyon is very close to the town of Norwood, but feels very remote. The road is well graveled from Norwood to the junction with CR Z39, and runs through excellent pinyon-juniper habitat with Blue-gray Gnatcatcher and Black-throated Gray Warbler. The valley floor is private property. Visitors must stay on the road. the permanent stream supports an interesting oak/riparian community with Black-headed Grosbeak, among other birds. Look for several species of lizards and snakes on the road on cool sunny days.