Wildlife of the Upper Arkansas Valley

The Arkansas River, the lifeblood of southeast Colorado, starts high in the Sawatch Range, meandering through mountain valleys and thundering through steep-sided gorges before finally streaming across the southeast plains. This trail follows the upper portions of the Arkansas from its origins above treeline down to pinyon-juniper covered hills and shallow canyons. Wildlife along the trail varies accordingly, with chances to spot ptarmigans or mountain goats on Cottonwood Pass, Pinyon Jays at the Fourmile Travel Management Area, and wintering eagles or waterfowl on the lakes on the floor of the valley. But birds are not the only reason to drive this route. The scenery features the highest peak in the state (Mount Elbert), the largest peak in the state (Mount Massive), one of the most distinctive peaks in the state (Mount Princeton), as well as the beginnings of what becomes the Royal Gorge further down-stream. The Upper Arkansas valley is a destination that will enthrall any nature lover.

Sands Lake State Wildlife Area

Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license or SWA pass is required for everyone 16 or older to access any State Wildlife Area or State Trust Land leased by Colorado Parks and Wildlife.

Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife

» Visit this Site

Fairview Cemetery

Admission: Free

Ownership: Private

» Visit this Site

Mount Ouray State Wildlife Area

Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license, or State Wildlife Area Pass is required for everyone 16 or older to access any State Wildlife Area or State Trust Land leased by Colorado Parks and Wildlife.

Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife

» Visit this Site

Mount Shavano State Fish Hatchery and Frantz Lake State Wildlife Area

Admission: Free at the hatchery. A valid Hunting license, Fishing license, OR State Wildlife Area Pass is required for everyone 16 or older accessing any State Wildlife Area or State Trust Land.

Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife

» Visit this Site

North Fork Reservoir Road

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

O’Haver Lake

Admission: A fee is required to enter

Ownership: USFWS

» Visit this Site

Monarch Pass

Admission: Camping fee

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

St. Elmo/Chalk Creek Canyon

Admission: Free

Ownership: Private/US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Cottonwood Lake

Admission: Camping fee

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Cottonwood Pass

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Fourmile Travel Management Area

Admission: Free

Ownership: BLM/US Forest Service/State

» Visit this Site

Buena Vista

Admission: Free

Ownership: Municipal

» Visit this Site

Clear Creek Reservoir State Wildlife Area

Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license, or State Wildlife Area pass is required for everyone 16 or older accessing any state wildlife area or state trust lands.

Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife

» Visit this Site

Twin Lakes (Lake County)

Admission: USFS day use and camping fees

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Mount Elbert Forebay

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Bureau of Reclamation

» Visit this Site

Independence Pass

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Crystal Lakes

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Leadville National Fish Hatchery

Admission: Free

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Turquoise Lake

Admission: USFS camping fee

Ownership: US Forest Service

» Visit this Site

Leadville

Admission: Free

Ownership: Municipal

» Visit this Site

Sands Lake State Wildlife Area

Sands Lake is one of the best birding lakes in Chaffee County. The willows around the lake can be good for migrants. The lake retains open water year-round, and so can be good for waterfowl, particularly during the colder months.

Hit The Trail »

Fairview Cemetery

This cemetery contains dense underbrush, both coniferous and deciduous, along a manmade watercourse. Mountain Bluebirds can be seen in the field along the entrance road, and mule deer can be numerous in the area.  Note, there is a plethora of bird species from American Robin and Pine Siskin, to the more rare occurences like the Northern Parula and Great Horned Owl.7.5.23

Hit The Trail »

Mount Ouray State Wildlife Area

A former fish hatchery, this state wildlife area includes several small ponds, a nice wetland area, and access to a stretch of the Arkansas River. It is a good place to look for sparrows, rails, wrens, and raptors like the Bald Eagle (winter) and the Northern Harrier.

Hit The Trail »

Mount Shavano State Fish Hatchery and Frantz Lake State Wildlife Area

Frantz Lake can sometimes be good for waterfowl, and in migration you may see Ospreys from the boardwalk or along the nearby Arkansas River. In spring and fall, look for migrants in the trees on the lake’s south side.  White-Faced Ibis can be seen duirng migration in adjacent drainage fields; and lots of Kingfishers and Great Blue Heron year-round.

The adjacent Mount Shavano State Fish Hatchery is open to the public, and grants access to the river.

Hit The Trail »

North Fork Reservoir Road

This road is well-maintained up to the Angel of Shavano Trailhead, however the first 4 miles from US 50 goes through private property. Birding in this 4 mile area is by car only, with little to no pull outs.  The area around the trailhead can be good birding, with some nice forests of mixed conifers and aspens.  Mammals that live in this area range from deer to bear. Camping is available at the nearby Angel of Shavano campground. Past the trailhead the road is inaccessible to standard vehicles.  This part of the road is open to OHV and hikers only due to extremely rocky and rough roads.  Clark’s Nutcrackers, Steller’s Jay, and Cassin’s Finch frequent this area.

Hit The Trail »

O’Haver Lake

O’Haver Lake Campground sits at an elevation of 9,200 feet, with ponderosa pines and aspen. Campsites are located along the shore of the lake, which is about 15 acres in size. This location is mostly a campground, but is great for day use and birding on the way to the site.

Hit The Trail »

Monarch Pass

Although it is a high mountain pass, Monarch Pass is not above tree line. The Monarch Ski Resort maintains a chair lift that will take visitors up above 12,000 feet.  The chair lift operates during the summer season and there is also a coffee shop/gift store. Flocks of crossbills and other mountain birds have been seen on and near the pass, and the campground can provide good birding also.

Hit The Trail »

St. Elmo/Chalk Creek Canyon

This canyon is full of natural beauty and historic interest. The Chalk Cliffs Fish Hatchery hosts Bald Eagles in winter, and the Love Meadow viewing area can provide views of bighorn sheep in summer. Far up the canyon is the historic mining town of St. Elmo, now mostly a ghost town. Historic buildings in various states of disrepair and restoration are all privately owned, so please be respectful. Birders will find much to interest them here, including fine examples of willow, aspen and spruce-fir habitat, the latter mostly above St. Elmo. These high forests could provide views of Three-toed Woodpecker or Pine Grosbeak. The Mt. Princeton Hot Springs provide a nice way to relax when you’re done exploring the area.

Hit The Trail »

Cottonwood Lake

This area is open during the winter, even when the pass is closed.  The beautiful lake sits at approximately 9,600 feet has a campground and many fine montane habitats, including mixed-conifer forest and a large willow carr just upstream from the lake.  The road winds through vast Aspen groves with many pull-outs ideal for car birding for Steller’s Jays and Dark-Eyed Junco, Wilson’s Snipe, Fox Sparrow and Cooper’s Hawk. The cliffs opposite the lake can provide views of mountain goats, and the canyon has bighorn sheep also. A trip here in the warmer months will be well-rewarded.

Hit The Trail »

Cottonwood Pass

The road from Buena Vista is paved up to the Continental Divide at Cottonwood Pass, a stunning high-elevation pass that gets high above treeline and provides nice access to alpine tundra. If you are prepared for some strenuous high-altitude hiking, you might find White-tailed Ptarmigan and Brown-capped Rosy-Finch in summer. The pass is closed in winter. The road up the west side, from Gunnison, is not paved but should be passable to most passenger cars. Most of the east side of the Cottonwood Pass Road is San Isabel National Forest or the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area, so if you’re looking for a backwoods experience, stop at the Forest Service office in Salida for maps. If you are into butterflies, this pass is an excellent location for Melissa and White-veined Arctics, Magdalena Alpine, and Lustrous Copper.

Hit The Trail »

Fourmile Travel Management Area

This large area includes BLM, Forest Service and state lands. This is a one lane road, with little to no pull outs that caters to a wide variety of outdoor recreationists, including four-wheelers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, and hikers. Depending on when you visit, parts of it may seem overrun, but there are areas that are quiet, secluded and inviting to bird/wildlife watchers. The western part of this area, just east of Johnson Village near the Collegiate Peaks Overlook, has the best pinyon-juniper habitat in the county and is a classic spot for Pinyon Jay among other specialties. For the best birding opportunities, drive the good-quality Road 304 past the overlook.

Hit The Trail »

Browns Canyon National Monument

Prime pinyon-juniper habitat nestled in the Upper Arkansas canyon. There is no fee for entrance to the National Monument, but the only parking is at the AHRA sites, which require the annual parks pass or daily vehicle pass. Look for Steller’s Jay, Clark’s Nutcracker, White-breated Nuthatch, and more!

For centuries, the rugged granite cliffs, colorful rock outcroppings and stunning mountain vistas of Browns Canyon National Monument have attracted visitors from around the world. Browns Canyon National Monument, including the Browns Canyon Wilderness Study Area (WSA), covers approximately 22,000 acres of federally and state-managed public lands in Chaffee County, Colorado. The area’s unusual geology and roughly 3,000-foot range in elevation supports a diverse riparian corridor, granite outcroppings, wooded drainages lead from the river to upland areas covered with aspen, limber pines, Douglas firs, and subalpine grasslands. The variety of terrain provides a wealth of geological, ecological and cultural and historic resources.

President Obama designated the 21,589-acre Browns Canyon National Monument on February 19, 2015. The Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service jointly manage the Monument. Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW), through the Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area (AHRA), manages river-based recreation on the Arkansas River through Browns Canyon.

Hit The Trail »

Buena Vista

This lovely little town, properly pronounced ‘byoona vista,’ has several nice riverside parks and nature trails as well as some ponds worth checking. Right downtown is McPhelemy Park, with great mature trees for migrant passerines, a duck pond, and a stream complete with willows. Lewis’s Woodpeckers aren’t difficult to find on the outskirts of Buena Vista. Forest Service maps of the Buena Vista area can be procured at The Trailhead, an outfitter on the east side of US 24 north of the traffic light.

Hit The Trail »

Clear Creek Reservoir State Wildlife Area

This State Wildlife Area is centered around the largest lake in Chaffee County, which has breeding birds including Common Merganser, Osprey and sometimes California Gull. There is a large area of willows just upstream from the lake that can provide good birding also. Watch for Bald Eagles in late fall, as well as rabbits, coyotes, red fox, and elk along the highway. There is bighorn sheep viewing in the canyon near Granite.

Hit The Trail »

Twin Lakes (Lake County)

The Twin Lakes are probably the best birding spot in Lake County. Large numbers of waterbirds sometimes congregate in fall. Ospreys can be seen in summer. The White Star Campground has Ponderosa Pine forest that might attract Western Tanager and Pygmy Nuthatch. The sagebrush on the north side of the lake has Sage Thrasher in summer, and the willows on the lake’s west end support Lincoln’s Sparrow, MacGillivray’s Warbler and breeding thrushes.

Hit The Trail »

Mount Elbert Forebay

This small lake just north of the Twin Lakes is not very accessible and there isn’t any parking.  Park at Mt. Elbert South Trail and walk up to Mt. Elbert Forebay Lake.  This area is mostly used by anglers and is usually empty of birds, but sometimes you can find grebes, mergansers or goldeneyes here, especially in the late fall.

Hit The Trail »

Independence Pass

Independence Pass is one of the few places in the state where you can ascend above treeline on a paved road. There is a paved trail here through beautiful alpine tundra. In summer you should find American Pipits and White-crowned Sparrows without trouble. If you hike on a trail across the tundra, you might stumble across White-tailed Ptarmigan or Brown-capped Rosy-Finch.

Hit The Trail »

Crystal Lakes

The small Crystal Lake is popular with fishermen but can also attract diving ducks and maybe even shorebirds. There is a fishing dock that can provide an accessible birding area.  Many nest boxes around the parking lot host Mountain Bluebird and Tree Swallow families in summer. The sage lands to the southwest are part of the Crystal Lakes State Trust Land and are open year-round for wildlife recreation. Look here for Horned Lark, Sage Thrasher and even Brewer’s Sparrow.

Hit The Trail »

Leadville National Fish Hatchery

Leadville National Fish Hatchery is the second-oldest federal hatchery in the nation. Its grounds are open to the public for hiking and wildlife viewing, and include willow thickets, subalpine (spruce-fir) forest, and two public fishing ponds which can attract waterfowl, especially in late fall. Great Blue Herons and Bald Eagles sometimes take advantage of the easy pickings here, and mammals on the property include elk and porcupine.

Hit The Trail »

Turquoise Lake

This very large lake is scenic, but often has few waterbirds, and a scope is usually necessary to see the ones that are there. However, grebes and loons are regular in late fall, along with a few ducks. The spruce-fir forest around the lake can be good in summer for high-elevation birds. The reintroduced lynx are sometimes found in the area, but you will have to be phenomenally lucky to see one.

Hit The Trail »

Leadville

Leadville is a picturesque old mining town at the foot of Colorado’s highest mountains. It has all the amenities. Feeders around town can attract birds including Pine Grosbeak and Rosy-Finches in winter. Along the highway south of town, look for raptors, including Rough-legged Hawk in winter, as well as elk and deer.

Hit The Trail »