Once upon a time, all the traffic traveling from Denver to western Colorado crossed Loveland Pass, and while the opening of the Eisenhower Tunnel has changed that, Loveland is still the best place near Denver to get to the alpine tundra. It is also the most reliable place in the state to find White-tailed Ptarmigan in winter plumage. The best birding is right at the top of the pass, where in the winter you can search for ptarmigan (which often hang out along the path heading west across the road from the parking area, or in the bowl on the southeastern side). During the summer months, the ptarmigan are much harder to find, but breeding American Pipits, Horned Larks, White-crowned Sparrows, and others make up for it. Loveland Pass also offers some of the best highland butterflying in the state, with several rare species possible, such as Polixenes Arctic and Magdalena Alpine.
Peak to Peak
Denver’s Mountainous Backyard
The Front Range is a phalanx of snow-capped mountains that guards the center of Colorado against any approach from the east. Today it is possible to explore the east flank of the Front Range on roads that follow these peaks, and in summer, it is possible to drive right to the top of some of them. Here you will find the nearest alpine tundra to Denver, the closest opportunity to rise above treeline into the realm of pika, marmots, White-tailed Ptarmigan, and Brown-capped Rosy-Finch. Here are ponderosa forests with sapsuckers and crossbills, spruces harboring Gray Jays and nutcrackers, bighorn sheep licking salt off the highway shoulder, and old mining towns that have reinvented themselves in myriad ways. This is Denver’s mountainous backyard, a must-visit area for anyone interested in Colorado nature.
Admission: Daily $20 parking fee, cash only, per vehicle
Ownership: USFS / Idaho Springs Covenant / Private
Admission: Timed Entry Reservation required, through recreation.gov. User fee: $15.00 for all sites, + $2.00 non-refundable reservation fee.
Ownership: USFS / Denver Mountain Parks
Mount Evans State Wildlife Area
Admission: A valid hunting or fishing license, or State Wildlife Area pass is required for everyone 16 or older accessing any state wildlife area or state trust lands.
Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife
Admission: State Parks Pass. Additional fee for camping .
Ownership: Colorado Parks and Wildlife
Admission: CASH OR CHECK ONLY fees apply during the summer operating season (typically mid-June through mid-October)
Ownership: USFS
Georgetown and Silver Plume
These two old mining towns right along I-70 give a rare glimpse into what Colorado was like over a century ago, when silver fever reigned supreme. Today, they make for a good base while exploring Clear Creek County’s high country, and a place to check feeders during the winter months. Silver Plume has a more rustic feel, and when feeders are up in winter, keep an eye out for all three rosy-finches, Pine Grosbeak, and others. A visit to Georgetown Lake may produce Bald Eagle and Osprey sightings. Georgetown has the lion’s share of the amenities and direct access to Guanella Pass during the summer. You are almost guaranteed to see Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in this area in November and December when rams migrate down the mountain to clash for mating rights with ewes. Visit the Georgetown Bighorn Sheep Festival the second Saturday in November, stop by the Gateway Visitor Center, or hit the Viewing Station just east of town to catch the sheep in action.
Guanella Pass
One of Colorado’s Scenic Byways and mostly closed in the winter, Guanella Pass makes for a beautiful back route between I-70 and South Park, with a variety of montane habitats from willow carrs, to spruce-fir woodland, to alpine tundra. American Three-toed Woodpeckers can often be found in the forest, along with Fox Sparrows in the willows, and (with luck) White-tailed Ptarmigan on the tundra. Keep an eye out for Bald Eagles and Osprey at the reservoirs along the roadway. For those looking to hike Mt. Bierstadt, the trail from the top of Guanella goes through more prime ptarmigan habitat, as well as offers the chance of Brown-capped Rosy-Finch. Guanella is a very popular trip for leaf-peepers looking for fall aspen colors, so be prepared for long lines of traffic traveling over the pass in autumn. Bighorn sheep and Moose are commonly seen.
Empire
The little town of Empire sits right at the junction of US 40 and I-70, and while not having quite the suite of amenities as Georgetown, it does offer a good stopover for anyone looking to re-stock. Bird-wise, look for American Dipper along the creek in town, and (in winter), Rosy-finches, and Evening Grosbeaks at feeders. Bald Eagles and Osprey occasionally seen south of town near private reservoirs, and raptors, including Peregrine Falcons, have been seen roosting on rocky outcroppings. This area can also be favorable to viewing bighorn sheep.
St. Mary’s Glacier
If you’re looking to spend a pleasant day hiking through the full suite of montane habitats, with a chance to see most of the species desired by visiting birders, all without having to travel too far from Denver, then look no further than the St. Mary’s Glacier Trail! Starting lower down, check willow thickets for Wilson’s Warbler, Fox and Lincoln’s Sparrows, and Dusky Flycatcher. In the spruce-fir woodland, you have a good shot at American Three-toed Woodpecker, Red Crossbill, and Golden-crowned Kinglet. As you break out into the stunted krummholz and finally onto alpine tundra, look for White-tailed Ptarmigan, and around rocky areas, Brown-capped Rosy-Finch. A variety of mammals are also in the area, including bighorn sheep and mountain goat. Note: there’s a daily parking fee at this location.
Idaho Springs
The largest town in Clear Creek County is also the best place to base yourself for a trip up Mt. Evans, as well as other high-country destinations. Idaho Springs is a good place to stock up before a trip to the backcountry, or visit a restaurant to celebrate your return. Birding opportunities in town are more limited, but a bike path along the nearby river sometimes has American Dipper, occasional raptors, lots of crows and others.
Mount Evans
Colorado is famed for its 14ers – that is peaks over 14,000 feet – and to get to most of them you need to hike for several miles. Not so with Mt. Evans, where the highest road in the US (and a Colorado Scenic Byway) ascends to within a couple hundred feet of the summit. In the process, you pass beautiful spruce-fir woodland, some of the oldest bristlecone pines in the world, and extensive alpine tundra. From a birding perspective, Mt. Evans is most famed as one of the easiest locations to find Brown-capped Rosy-finch – look along the trail around Summit Lake. At the summit, Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, mountain goat, American Pika, and Yellow-bellied Marmots are common residents. Also look for White-tailed Ptarmigan, and down in the forest, American Three-toed Woodpecker, Williamson’s Sapsucker, Clark’s Nutcracker, and others. Echo Lake Lodge, at the base of the Mt. Evans Highway, has good hummingbird feeders during the summer months, and the adjacent Echo Lake has had breeding Barrow’s Goldeneye the past few years. When open, Mt. Evans is very busy and though animals may seem tame and tolerant of people, they are still wild and potentially dangerous. Always keep a safe distance from wildlife, do not feed wildlife, please stay on trails, and do not cross the fragile tundra. Timed entry reservations are required and can be obtained through recreation.gov.
Mount Evans State Wildlife Area
Not to be confused with the famous Mt. Evans, this State Wildlife Area actually has some beautiful mature Ponderosa forest, with possible species including Williamson’s Sapsucker, Pygmy Nuthatch, Western Bluebird, and Cassin’s Finch.
NOTE: This State Wildlife Area is completely closed to public access between January 1 to June 14, as it is critical winter and breeding grounds for elk. Additionally, use is restricted to only fishing and hunting activities from the day after Labor Day to end of 4th rifle season, typically the end of the 3rd week in November. Vehicles are restricted from entering the day after Labor Day until June 14. Camping is limited to 5 days in any 45-day period, except during big game seasons. Dogs are prohibited, except when used in hunting, or on a leash. Be sure to check current hunting, fishing and land use regulations when planning to visit a State Wildlife Area.
Golden Gate Canyon State Park
A large state park beautifully situated in the upper foothills, this is a popular place for Denver area birders traveling into the mountains. The size of the park means that a wide range of montane habitats are present, including coniferous woodlands, aspen groves, and wetlands, along with an extensive network of walking trails. The best roadside birding is along Mountain Base Road, and several trails heading off it allow further exploration. Look in Ponderosa woodland for Pygmy Nuthatch and Williamson’s Sapsucker; in Aspen woodland for Red-naped Sapsucker, Violet-green Swallow, Warbling Vireo, and Western Wood-pewee; and in areas where the two mix, keep an ear out for Flammulated Owl (at night). Lower lying areas near the Visitor’s Center have extensive willows, along with Lincoln’s Sparrow, MacGillivray’s Warbler, and Wilson’s Snipe. Finally, the open country could yield up Mountain Bluebirds and offers the best place for mammal spotting, including increased sightings of Moose. A State Parks pass is required for entry and hunting occurs here, so be sure to check for seasonal restrictions before visiting.
Los Lagos Reservoir #3
The epitome of a birdy mountain lake, this small private reservoir sits right next to the highway on the Boulder/Gilpin county line and can be scanned from the road. It is best viewed during the summer and fall, and can have everything from Ring-necked Duck to Eared Grebe to nesting Osprey and Wilson’s Snipe.
Rollins Pass (East side)
While no longer a through-road to the western side of the divide, the Rollins Pass Road still provides 4WD access to alpine tundra, as well as spruce-fir forest and willow thickets. These can hold Fox and Lincoln’s Sparrows, MacGillivray’s and Wilson’s Warblers, Dusky Flycatcher, and Green-tailed Towhee. In the spruce-fir, keep a careful eye out for American Three-toed Woodpecker, and on the tundra, there’s the off chance for White-tailed Ptarmigan and Brown-capped Rosy-finch, in addition to the more common American Pipit and Horned Lark. Bighorn Sheep, Elk, and American Pika are all also found here. Be aware, the condition of the road can be rocky; a sturdy, high-clearance vehicle with 4-wheel drive is recommended. To explore a similar habitat not too far from here, look into touring nearby Rogers Pass.
Caribou Ranch Open Space
This open space is closed each year from April 1 to June 30 to protect migratory birds and the resident elk herd during calving season. At other times of year, one can hike through high-elevation mixed conifer forests where Hermit Thrush, Ruby-crowned Kinglet, and Gray-headed Junco breed. Abert’s squirrels can be seen in some parts of the property, and Veery has been found breeding in patches of willows, though it is not to be expected. Please note pets are not allowed at this property.
Brainard Lake Recreation Area
The Brainard Lake recreation area is composed of a number of trailheads and a campground in high-elevation spruce-fir forest and is a good place to look for Gray Jays, American Three-toed Woodpeckers, and Dusky Grouse. In the winter months, the Brainard Lake road is closed near the highway, and one must walk (or better yet, snowshoe or ski) to reach the lake. Boreal Owls have occasionally been reported at night. Those who are prepared for a serious hike can tackle the trail to Mount Audubon located inside the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area, where Brown-capped Rosy-finches and White-tailed Ptarmigan await the intrepid (and lucky). Moose increasingly call Brainard home, and hunting is to be expected in this area in season. Beware of afternoon thunderstorms and bring a detailed map. Be advised, this area is very crowded on weekends, and parking is a challenge; you may want to arrive early or plan on an early evening visit. There is also an entrance fee to the area in summer – cash or check only.